Ecuador Week 4: Discovering the Andes Region through Commerce in Cuenca, Agriculture in Cañar, Ruins in Ingapirca, and Preservation in Cajas National Park
The Cuenca Tranvía
Early on in the week I found myself with a free afternoon, and decided to learn more about the city’s light rail system, the Cuenca Tranvía. The first time I rode on the Cuenca Tranvía, two weeks prior after eating guinea pig for the first time, I purchased a single-use ticket to explore the city. I found out later, however, that reusable discounted tickets were also available from a few different locations around the city.
Hoping to secure one of these for myself, after class on Tuesday I walked to Etapa, the company responsible for many public services in the city, to buy my own Tranvía card. The card itself only cost $1.75, and each trip on the Tranvía after that would only be $0.30. I loaded a few trip’s worth of value onto my card and headed to the nearest station. I hopped on and rode over to the Rio Tomebamba station to end my commute back home.
Lunch at the Plaza de los Geranios Colgantes
The next morning after class, on the University of Cuenca’s main campus, where our program was hosted, a group of us decided to walk up into the city center for lunch. Right next to the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción, the city’s main cathedral, is a beautiful historic building that has been repurposed into a collection of different types of restaurants. The vendors line the perimeter of the courtyard, known as the Plaza de los Geranios Colgantes, where tables are available that give one-of-a-kind views to the neighboring cathedral. We ended up deciding to dine at Las Cruces al Carbón y Café and topped it off with dessert from a store called Ice Cream Shoppe nearby. Both were delicious, and the atmosphere was great as well.
Climbing the Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción de Cuenca
With the cathedral looming over us the entire time while we were eating lunch, we decided once we had finished that it was time to visit the city’s main landmark for ourselves. Entrance to the cathedral was only $2.00, and we immediately began climbing on an elegant brick spiral staircase to the second floor. After exploring the area on this floor we began ascending up another spiral staircase towards the roof.
The climb was totally worth it. The viewing area not only gave incredible up-close access to the cathedral’s ornate domes, but unparalleled panoramas of the entire surrounding city as well, including overlooking where we had just eaten lunch and the central Parque Calderon. The cathedral offered a fantastic scenic perspective of our Andean summer home. We admired the view for a while before heading back home.
La Cámara de Industrias de Cuenca
Thursday afternoon our group met at the Camara de Industrias, the tallest building in Cuenca. We were welcomed up to one of the top floors to listen to a presentation from the city’s chamber of commerce, learning more about the city’s industries, economic and environmental goals and impacts, and aspects of sustainability that the organization was actively working to improve in the region.
Although Cuenca is one of the largest cities in the country, it does not have much space for farmland due to the surrounding mountains. Instead of focusing on agriculture, the region has become the most industrialized area in the entire country. Because of this, citizens of Cuenca enjoy arguably the best quality of life within Ecuador and enjoy a level of cleanliness and security that is not found in other large cities in the country such as Quito or Guayaquil. La Camara de Industrias plays a fundamental role in the prosperity of the region, and represents more than one hundred and forty companies in Cuenca. In addition, they have a unique capacity to support the development of Cuenca.
It was a fascinating experience to hear about the chamber’s work, but as interesting as it was I found myself distracted multiple times by the view out of the conference room’s floor-to-ceiling windows. The room overlooked the Parque de la Madre and much of the city could be seen in the distance as well. I even spotted a plane coming in to land at the Aeropuerto Mariscal La Mar too. It was a very unique experience to get the opportunity to hear directly from some of the city’s most influential leaders and both hear about and see the area from a special angle.
Bus Ride to Cañar from Cuenca
Friday morning we met up at the university early to take a bus to our day’s excursion to Ingapirca, a collection of ancient Incan ruins. We passed through Azogues on our way north to Ingapirca, but got slowed by construction traffic as we passed through the mountains. Houses dotted the hillsides, and we passed a few cattle ranches along the way as well.
La Asociación Mushuk Yuyay
Our first stop of the day was to meet with members of the Asociación Mushuk Yuyay, an organization of Andean workers in different aspects of the agricultural process based in Ecuador’s Cañar Province. We traveled to one of their fincas, a Spanish term for a farm or a ranch, to get up close with regional crops and livestock. We passed groups of sheep and ducks on our way down the path to the main area where different types of grain, including quinoa, were growing. Once we got the end of the path we spent some time listening to one of the farmers talk about the work they were doing at the finca and took in the serene environment. You can learn more about the association’s work on their Facebook page here!
Touring an Agricultural Processing Plant
The next stop in our Andean agricultural tour was to visit the processing plant a few miles away where the crops produced at the finca were transported. We heard more about the association’s work and the benefits to the local community, and got to see workers through a window overlooking a processing room. Afterwards, we even got the chance to purchase some finished products, authentic and fresh from the places we had just visited.
Exploring Ingapirca
After a quick break to eat our packed lunches we headed towards our next stop of the day, a special site taking us back in time to when the Incan Empire ruled the area known as Ingapirca. The name Ingapirca comes from a Kichwa word that means “wall or rampart of the Inca.” The city was a vital part of both the Cañari and Incan empires, not only as a religious and administrative center, but also as a hub for communication and trade. The Incans were masters of engineering and construction, and Ingapirca is a testament to their skills. As a civil engineering student, I was curious to learn more about the inner workings of the historical site, and as we arrived at the ancient city, nestled into the Andes Mountains, I couldn’t help but feel excited to explore the area.
After collecting our tickets, our tour began and we started learning about the historic location. We passed many different significant ruins, including the Collcas, the Pilaloma, the Gran Cancha, the Bodegas, the Condamine, the Vaguada and the Ceremonial Baths, among others. Our tour guide explained how each piece of ancient infrastructure enabled the city to thrive and contributed to the community overall. Only the foundations of these structures remain today, but their layout offers insightful clues about the civilizations who inhabited the region.
Agriculture and Hydrology
As we continued along the path, we were offered an impressive view of Ingapirca’s agricultural terraces below. These terraces, carved into the hillside in the middle of the city, provided food for the residents of Ingapirca. The techniques utilized to farm the mountainous terrain for farming was very impressive to learn about. Additionally, evidence of a complex water system was visible on the site, and is thought to have been one of the most advanced systems of its time. The aqueducts were primarily used for irrigation, hygiene, and religious ceremonies, and connected across the landscape.
The Incan Road
Next we passed a section of the famous Incan road, also known as the Royal Road of the Sun, which was a vast network of roads connecting the different regions of the Incan empire. A section of this road passed through Ingapirca, making the site an important stop for travelers, traders, and messengers. The road was well-maintained, with rest stops, inns, and storage facilities along the way. The section of the road that passed through Ingapirca was a crucial link between the capital of the Incan empire, Cusco, and Quito, a major city in the northern part of the empire. The road was used for the transportation of goods, people, and messages between the two cities, and it played a vital role in maintaining the unity of the Incan empire.
Remnants of the road in Ingapirca are still visible, including stone paving, walls, and terraces. These structures are evidence of the Incas’ advanced engineering skills and their commitment to maintaining the road network. The road was not only a means of transportation, but it also served as a symbol of the power and unity of the Incan empire.
The Temple of the Sun
Finally, we reached the last stop of our tour and one of the most impressive remaining structures still standing at Ingapirca: The Temple of the Sun. This temple was used as a place of worship for the sun god, Inti, and is considered to be the best preserved example of Incan architecture in Ecuador. The temple was used to calculate astronomical observations, and played a crucial role in the Incan calendar and religion. It was amazing to see the intricate details and design of this ancient religious structure and the incredible overlooking views it offered of the entire region.
Ingapirca was an unforgettable experience, and I’m grateful to have had the opportunity to explore such a significant piece of history. The ruins are surrounded by stunning views of the Andes Mountains, making it a truly awe-inspiring destination.
Hiking in Cajas National Park
Saturday, our class drove west from Cuenca to embark on a day hike in Cajas National Park, located in the high Andes of Ecuador. The park is known for its breathtaking landscapes, diverse wildlife, and rich history, and after driving through it a few weeks earlier on our way to Guyaquil, I was very excited to hike for a closer-up view of the extraordinary piece of preserved nature.
As we arrived at the park entrance, I was immediately struck by the stunning beauty of the surrounding mountains and lakes. The park covers an area of over 110 square miles, and is home to over 500 species of birds, as well as other unique wildlife such as the Andean bear, puma, and deer. There are also 780 individual bodies of water in the park as well, from lakes to wetlands to streams in between.
El Camino de Garcia Moreno
After exploring the visitor’s center, we set out on our hike, following a well-trodden trail known as El Camino de Garcia Moreno that wound its way through the rolling hills and valleys of the park. We began by walking along the edge of Laguna Toreadora, stopping to take pictures of the breathtaking scenery.
El Bosquete de Polylepis
After hiking around the base of Cerro San Luis, we entered the Polylepis Forest, filled with dense trees in a way I had never seen before. Our group slowed down as we navigated through the grove, partially due to the reduced space but also due to feelings of curiosity and astonishment as well. Once we reached the other side of the group of Polylepis trees, we stopped on an outcrop to eat our lunches and take in the views.
Laguna Totoras
We continued our hike after lunch, and after a while were rewarded with awe-inspiring views of Laguna Totoras, with waterfalls visible in the distance. Our guide explained that Cajas National Park straddles the continental divide of South America, the line separating the Atlantic and Pacific watersheds. It was a truly awe-inspiring moment, as I stood at the top of the pass and gazed out at the vast, sprawling landscape stretching out in all directions.
The Andean Highlands
As I hiked, I couldn’t help but think about the rich history of Cajas National Park. The area has been inhabited for over 7,000 years, and was once a crucial part of the Inca empire. Today, the park is protected as a national park and is one of the most popular outdoor recreation areas in the country. It was a great way to end our second-to-last week in Ecuador, and allowed me to reflect on the summer’s experiences before leaving a few days later.
Check out the map below to see where we hiked in Cajas National Park!
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